Dozens of master cheese-makers will take part in the Republican festival-competition “Circassian Cheese”, which will be held today [5 October 2014], in the Central Square of Maikop, Adigea, as the culinary section of the VI International Festival of Circassian Culture.
Adigean cheese is one of the most famous and recognized brands of the Republic of Adigea, where there are eight large and medium-sized cheese-making facilities, and more than 20 private entrepreneurs engaged in the production of this product. The Republic produces more than 6,000 tons of cheese annually, 50% of which – Circassian.
The "Festival of Circassian Cheese" is being held in the Capital of Adigea for the fifth time. Traditionally, manufacturers of Circassian cheese present unique ethnic tasting and purchase booths, where guests are treated to delicious cheese dishes, and are given demonstrations on how to prepare a variety of dishes based on Circassian cheese (some cheese recipes are given below).
The jury at the festival-competition will determine the winners in two major categories: Best master cheese-maker, and the most hospitable farmstead. A special prize will also be awarded to the organizers of the most hospitable booth/outlet, which will fry the greatest number of cheese-stuffed pasties (хьалыжъу; halizchw), as treats for the Festival visitors.
The Festival will be attended by representatives of all the regions of Adigea, dairy production enterprises, entrepreneurs, farmers, and representatives of private farms.
Circassian cheese has been known in the West Caucasus since ancient times. Traditionally, it was fermented by women, and each Circassian village had its own recognized masters of cheese-making.
Circassian cheese is exclusively made from fresh milk from cows/sheep/goats grazing in the foothills of the Caucasus. Experts attribute the softness of Circassian cheese to the method of preparation, whereby the milk is gently boiled with the gradual addition of fermented milk whey. The soft clots are then placed in specially-woven fine wicker baskets, giving the cheese its beautiful pattern, and only after that is the cheese salted.
Photos: From the III Festival of Circassian Cheese, Maikop, 5 October 2012. [Taysa Toshina]
Method of making Circassian cheese and a number of cheese-based recipes, from Amjad M. Jaimoukha’s book “Circassian Culture and Folklore” [London: Bennett and Bloom, 2010, pp. 148-9, 154, 156]
Circassian Cheese (Къуае, Qwaye)
Milk is placed in a vessel and heated. As it comes to the boil, (cheese) whey is poured in slowly and regularly at the edges of the vessel until the cheese starts to form on the surface (the whey, «къоепсы» [“qweyepsi”], remains at the bottom). The cheese is kept being removed from the vessel as it forms and placed in special baskets (of plaited twigs; «бжъалъ» [“bzchalh”]), to impart upon it the traditional distinctive round shape, or a strainer placed on a collecting container (to keep the whey for future use). To speed the straining process, the cheese is shaken up and down and turned two or three times. The cheese is then placed in a large bowl and salt is added to taste (more salt is added if the cheese is destined for smoking). Warm whey is poured in the bowl and the cheese is kept in the salt solution for one day. The cheese is either smoke-dried in the hearth or dried on the hearth or in the sun. Smoked cheese has different taste and aroma to the dried variety.
Circassian cheese dishes:
1. Cheese Pasties (Хьалыжъу, Halizchw)
Ingredients: 1 litre milk, 100 g melted butter, 1 egg, flour, grated fresh Circassian cheese, salt (to taste).
The flour is kneaded with milk and the egg and the resulting dough is divided into small lumps. These are rolled thin (to a size of a small plate). Slightly salted grated fresh (Circassian) cheese is placed on one half of the rolled dough pieces and the other half is folded over the cheese. A special implement («хьалыжъопкI» [“halizchwepch’”], toothed-wheel with a handle; literally: pasty-cutter) is used to form the pieces into triangular shapes with jagged edges (formed by the action of the toothed-wheel). These pieces are fried in boiling melted butter and usually had hot.
2. Fried Cheese (Къояжъ, Qweyazch)
Ingredients: 500 g cheese, 200 g onions (or green onions), ground hot red pepper, salt (to taste).
Chopped onion is fried in butter with (or without) ground hot red pepper. Crumbled fresh cheese is added, mixed well, and fried for 5-10 minutes. The dish is then ready to be served.
3. Fried Cheese Slices (Къоебзыгъ, Qweyebzigh)
Fresh cheese is cut into thin slices and then placed in hot butter or melted butter in a frying-pan and fried to redness on both sides. Scrambled eggs are poured on the cheese slices, which are again fried on both sides to redness. The cheese slices are placed in deep plates and a mixture of soured milk and cream is poured on them. The dish is now ready to be served.
4. Fried Cheese with Eggs (КъоежъэкIэнкIэгъэжъагъ, Qweyezchech’ench’eghezchagh)
Ingredients: 200 g cheese, 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful butter, sour cream.
The cheese is crumbled in hot butter in a frying-pan and fried and turned. A scrambled egg is poured in and the cheese is fried for five more minutes. The cheese is placed in plates and a tablespoonful of sour cream is poured on the cheese in each plate.
5. Crumbled Fresh Cheese (КъоецIынэ щытIагъ, Qweyets’ine shit’agh)
Fresh cheese is either rubbed or crumbled with butter. Shredded green onions are added and mixed. The mixture is placed on a plate and a spoonful of sour cream is poured on it. This dish is had with bread or millet dumplings.
6. Flaky Dough with Cheese (Гуубат, Gwubat)
Ingredients: 5 kg white flour, 20 eggs, 1 kg sugar (or honey).
For the filling: Grated fresh Circassian cheese, 3 whisked egg yolks, 200 g butter, salt to taste.
This dish could be prepared with or without sugar (honey).
The yolk and white of an egg are whisked separately and then mixed together and poured in the flour. Melted butter, sour milk and salt to taste are also added and the dough is kneaded, and then kept aside and allowed to rise. When ready the dough is separated into 13-15 pieces, which are rolled thin and daubed with melted butter and then placed one on top of the other. The layered dough is rolled again and then cut into 10x10 cm square pieces. The filling is placed in the middle and the opposite corners of each piece are knotted together, leaving the sides open and the yellow filling visible. The pieces are arranged in a baking tray and baked in the oven to redness. They are then removed from the oven and immediately covered with a clean serviette and allowed to cool down. Before serving, a half a spoonful of honey is poured on each piece for a pleasant aroma.
7. Boiled Whey with Milk (Къундысыу, Qwndisiw)
The whey («къоепсы» [“qweyepsi”]) produced in the summer is collected in a pan or vat and kept until October. Then, the whey is boiled in a tinned or enamelled vessel until a third of it boils off. The remaining liquid (whitish and slightly thick) is poured in a ceramic pitcher, enamelled vessel, or a clean vat and salted to taste. Fresh milk is poured in with the whey when it cools down. Milk is added every day to the vat to keep up a fresh supply for daily use.
This drink is usually had after rich meat dishes and is also served with boiled or fried gourds (just like sour milk). It has a pleasant unique taste and is very nutritious. It slakes thirst and is good for the digestive system.